Tied and Dyed: The Kasuri Tradition Passed Down in Kurume.
Hirokawa Town, located in southern Fukuoka Prefecture, is a lush, agricultural area known for its fruits. Here, one workshop continues to challenge itself with the craft of Kurume Kasuri, a nationally designated traditional craft of Japan.
Sakata Orimono, founded in 1948, has carried this tradition through three generations, producing countless textiles and garments. Once, they were primarily a weaver supplying bolts of fabric to kimono shops, but since the economic bubble era, they have shifted to planning, producing, and selling original clothing and accessories that make use of traditional techniques.
since the Edo period. Globally, ikat weaving is believed to have originated in India, but in Japan, it is said to have begun when a young girl living in Kurume came upon the technique and generously shared it with her apprentices. Ever since, kasuri has been nurtured in this region.
Clothing made from Kurume Kasuri is prized above all for comfort. Its cotton has a refreshing breathability and a soft texture that grows more familiar and supple with each wear.
The production of kasuri involves about 30 different stages, each requiring the skills of specialized artisans, and takes roughly two months from start to finish. One of the most critical stages is kukuri (“tying”), where threads are tightly bound before dyeing to resist the dye in certain areas. At Sakata Orimono, this step is supported by unique machines that allow for medium-scale production. Visitors can observe the fascinating sight of threads being intricately tied.
This tying workshop is shared with neighboring producers, but since the machines are highly specialized, they are indispensable to the industry. Recently, concerns have grown over aging equipment and risk of breakdowns, with the community searching for solutions together. It was a stark reminder of how essential tools are to craft, and the heavy responsibility of preserving traditional industries.
The next stop was the weaving and dyeing workshop. Here, old shuttle looms, built over 100 years ago, stand densely packed and thunderously weave in unison, so loud that conversation is nearly impossible. These looms are no longer manufactured today, and when they break down, repairs are a painstaking process of trial and error. Yet, the softness of the finished fabric and the pleasant feel of the clothing it produces cannot be replicated without these old looms. Some employees were even drawn to work here after being captivated by the historical atmosphere, proving that Sakata Orimono’s charm lies not only in its products but also in its workplace itself.
Kurume Kasuri to New York! Facing the Challenges of Overseas Sales.
In 2017, Sakata Orimono was invited by a business partner who was opening a shop in New York to join them. This was the beginning of their entry into international trade fairs. At the time, they believed “Made in Japan” would be enough to guarantee sales, but reality was harsh. Even painstakingly crafted items were difficult to sell, revealing the challenges of low recognition and a niche market abroad.
From there, they dedicated themselves to raising awareness of kasuri. At Parsons School of Design in New York, one of the world’s leading design schools, they gave special lectures as visiting instructors, and also invited students and alumni to Japan to experience the weaving process firsthand. These activities not only spread the craft but also helped build valuable connections.
Third-generation head, Kazuo Sakata (online interview).
Now, when they hold pop-up stores in New York, their products often sell out. What’s more, even without their own staff present, local partners who understand Kurume Kasuri handle the sales.
“Overseas, if you don’t communicate properly, your work is overlooked. But if the value is understood, it can become explosively popular. The efforts we’ve made to steadily spread knowledge about kasuri are now bearing fruit in New York,” they said.
Beyond Tradition: The Exciting Possibilities of Kasuri.
Sakata Orimono continues to break free of conventional kasuri, guided by the philosophy of “bringing kasuri closer to everyday life.” In 2022, they launched a new brand called “sakata”, developing refined new textiles with a fresh perspective unconstrained by tradition.
Next to the company office, they opened SAKATA CAFE, a space designed to promote kasuri through “food.” Visitors can enjoy seasonal dishes and kasuri-themed meals, while also browsing the company’s clothing and accessories. Functioning as a casual third place connected to everyday life, it feels like an “idea lab” where new content and experiences introduce kasuri in approachable ways.
Interview, Photography, and Text: Daiki Morishita