Batten lace is a type of lace made by outlining a design with a tape of woven thread called “braid,” and then filling the interior with various needlework stitches. Originating in Battenberg, Germany, it was introduced to Japan in the Meiji era. Its delicate yet graceful designs, which also carry a sense of nostalgia, are among the greatest charms of Batten lace. “In the past, large interior products were common, especially table centers and upright piano covers. Nowadays, fashionable items such as parasols and detachable collars for clothing are more popular,” says Setsuko Yoshida, who grew up helping her mother with lacework from a young age.

“Since all the materials of Batten lace are handmade, large products like piano covers can take months to complete, but they are very durable. It’s the hallmark of careful, stitch-by-stitch handiwork. Even parasols made 60 years ago, despite their delicate transparency, remain unbroken to this day. On a sunny day, if you open a Batten lace parasol, lace-patterned shadows fall on the ground—it’s beautiful. I believe the real charm of lace lies in those moments of unexpected beauty in everyday use.”

Why did Batten lace, which originated in Germany, come to be produced in Joetsu City? In the late 19th century, lace products using braids gained popularity in the West, and around 1887–88 they arrived in Japan via Yokohama and Kobe. There, foreign traders sought Japanese producers, and around 1890 Yoshida’s grandfather founded Yoshida Batten Lace. “At that time, the braids were 100% imported. With no factories or sewing machines, women gathered in tatami rooms and stitched the lace by hand. Products like tablecloths and placemats were exported entirely to America and Europe. After all, Western lifestyle habits had not yet taken root in Japan.”
By around 1900, domestic production of braids began, turning the craft into a major local industry. By the Taisho era, 7,000 to 8,000 people were engaged in Batten lace making. “Back then, the entire town thrived on Batten lace. You could hear the sound of braid looms just by walking outside. The snowy climate of Joetsu suited the patience required for lacework. In the long winters, when men left for seasonal work, women stayed home, supporting their families by making Batten lace as side work.”

During Japan’s postwar economic boom, as Western-style living spread, domestic demand increased, and Batten lace from Joetsu flourished, supplied to department stores nationwide. However, with the influx of inexpensive lace from places like China, more than 20 local producers eventually closed. Why was Yoshida’s workshop able to endure these rough tides? Setsuko Yoshida explains:

“Our strength lies in integrated production. We handle everything—from making the braid, to design, to production, to sales. By producing materials ourselves, we can create higher-quality products. Since the Meiji era, refined and meticulous techniques have been passed down to create beautiful Batten lace. Handwork takes time and prevents mass production, which makes it difficult in today’s market. But if we remain diligent and uncompromising, our work will still be valued. Nowadays, we receive orders online, collaborate with companies, and even take overseas commissions. We also exhibit in Ginza and Nihonbashi in Tokyo, and what brings us the greatest joy is sharing the beauty of Batten lace with so many customers.”

In 2022, Batten lace was officially designated as a traditional craft of Niigata Prefecture. Today, a cultural property of Joetsu City—the former Imai Dye Shop, built in the late Edo period—serves as the workshop. There, Batten lace experiences and study sessions are held to pass down these handcraft techniques to the next generation.

“The defining feature of Batten lace is the expressive use of braids. Different colors and thicknesses of braid are used depending on the design. At both edges of the braid runs a thread called katan ito (selvage thread). By pulling this thread, the braid bends. You can curve it into a circle or make it angular—this contrast creates a clear outline. Then, by filling the inside with embroidery stitches, geometric patterns emerge,” explains Yoshida.

Yoshida’s Batten lace classes welcome participants of all ages, and many have already become highly skilled. The women’s handiwork that was preserved for generations in snowy Joetsu continues to captivate people even today.